Can I power an ePMP with 24V POE, like Mikrotik RB750UP

Turns out, that ePMP can be powered by the RB750UP with no problem. No crossing of cables or anything. Not sure about other Cambium products but GPS sysc AP works fine, at 24V. 

I don't think so. 48V is too much power for ePMP. I think it can take up to 35V or something like that. 

48V is fine for the GPS radios (up to 56v, actually), but for the non-GPS radios (all the SMs) you want to keep it under 30v.

Powering a GPS ePMP radio or Force180 (and I believe Force 200) from an RB750UP will work fine without crossing cables or anything, but that is not true for the connectorized 5ghz SMs (non GPS radios) and the integrated SMs - it will work to power them from an RB750UP, but you would need to swap 4/5 and 7/8 in the cable.

I believe that the GPS Sync radios have heaters in them and you may find when it is cold enough for these heaters to kick on that the radio will not be able to boot on the 24v power supply.  At least that is what we think was causing us problems on AP's with 24v power sources . We think that the cold weather bug would cause the radios to reboot and then when they tried to boot back up with their little heater resistors running the 24v PS couldn't feed them enough power to start back up.  If you are were it gets very cold you probably want to use 30v ePMP power supplies or a 48v power source.

Hi, 

There are two KB articles that will help undertand ePMP power spec under cold temps and using a CMM. 

http://community.cambiumnetworks.com/t5/ePMP-Installation/ePMP-Powering-at-Sub-freezing-Temperatures/m-p/48918

http://community.cambiumnetworks.com/t5/ePMP-Installation/Powering-ePMP-via-CMM/m-p/48920

Thanks,

Sriram

If I want to power up a ePMP1000 connectorized or ePMP force 180, with a "Mikrotik hAP" and external temperature is -10°C isn't possible?

Power supply provided is a 24V-0,8A

On datasheet of hAP ether5 can Poe-out a max of 0,5A

So based on cable lenght can provide 10-12WATT

But cambium need 13W when temprature is under 0°C to defrost

So I can have problem powering up with a hAP?

I'm guessing it would probably work fine... it just might take a little longer to warm up.

Today I tried to put a ePMP1000 Connectorized in the freezer. When it is icy, I try to power up using a hAP with its original power supply Mikrotik (24V  0,8A).
It can not start with a 10mt cable.

With a 50cm patch it start.

I hear the hiss of the thermal resistance

So, I need a 30V power supply for the hAP. Where I can find it?

A GPS or non-GPS radio? the GPS radios will start running into problems around 22v, but the non-GPS radios will run at much lower voltage.


@Mirko wrote:

If I want to power up a ePMP1000 connectorized or ePMP force 180, with a "Mikrotik hAP" and external temperature is -10°C isn't possible?

Power supply provided is a 24V-0,8A

On datasheet of hAP ether5 can Poe-out a max of 0,5A

So based on cable lenght can provide 10-12WATT

But cambium need 13W when temprature is under 0°C to defrost

So I can have problem powering up with a hAP?


Please refer to the attached KB article on this topic. 

http://community.cambiumnetworks.com/t5/ePMP-Installation/ePMP-Powering-at-Sub-freezing-Temperatures/m-p/48918#U48918

Sakid


@Mirko wrote:

If I want to power up a ePMP1000 connectorized or ePMP force 180, with a "Mikrotik hAP" and external temperature is -10°C isn't possible?

Power supply provided is a 24V-0,8A

On datasheet of hAP ether5 can Poe-out a max of 0,5A

So based on cable lenght can provide 10-12WATT

But cambium need 13W when temprature is under 0°C to defrost

So I can have problem powering up with a hAP?


Please refer to the attached KB article on this topic. 

http://community.cambiumnetworks.com/t5/ePMP-Installation/ePMP-Powering-at-Sub-freezing-Temperatures/m-p/48918#U48918

Sakid

I have been following this thread with interest. We're also doing a solar link with IP cameras to watch a protected habitat. We found what we thought would be the ideal POE switch from Veracity, the Camswitch Mobile, takes 8-30vdc in and will supposedly run any 12 or 24vdc POE device. We tried the Force 180 and it would not power it. We built the cross-over power cables (swapped the brown and blues) but it would not work. We ended up injecting 12vdc into the cable using the Cat5 part of a Canopy POE injector.

That got the 180 up and running. We have run the voltage down to 10vdc on the bench and it seems to run just fine. This is pretty encouraging for the solar site. I don't have time to rebuild it and move to 24vdc.

It seems that the smart POE switches have to "sense" the need for POE or else they won't output voltage.

Will post the results when we get the system up.

Here's what we found after experimenting on the bench for a couple of days.

We whacked the injector off a Canopy and fed the Force 180 with 12.5 vdc, it worked a treat,as the 180 is evidenlty not 802.3af compatible. It was plugged into the Veracity switch which powered the POE cameras. Since the cameras were 803.2af/t compatible they worked fine. With this configuration we could run the supply voltage to both the Force 180 and the switch down to a little over 10vdc and they kept working, in fact we ran them for 30 hours on the bench at 10vdc. If the voltage went lower they would drop out but would come back up when the input went back up above 11.5vdc.

We also tested an Ubitquity Instant 802.3af adapter (POE to passive) to run the Force 180 from the switch. That worked just fine, too. However, we found that the whole system dropped out just under 11vdc with the Ubiquity in the mix so we pulled it and put the injector back in line.

The whole system, (2) Alibi IP cams, the switch and the Force 180 pull about 850ma at 12+ volts so we're pretty happy that this will work on our solar powered system. We have an 85 watt panel and a honking big battery. HTH.


@mplradio wrote:

Here's what we found after experimenting on the bench for a couple of days.


If you're in an area that goes below freezing, Run one more test. Put the radio in the freezer and let it cool down. Issue a reboot and see that the system remains up.

That is unless you are in an area that does not freeze...

UD, we don't get much freezing where we are, maybe a couple of nights this past winter.

We got the system up and running today, worked a treat.

Here's what we see on the other end of the link.

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@mplradio wrote:

UD, we don't get much freezing where we are, maybe a couple of nights this past winter.

We got the system up and running today, worked a treat.

Here's what we see on the other end of the link.


That's great news! Is the Force 180 feeding both those cameras? What kind of bandwidth do those cameras demand from the Force 180?

I love the angle of your cute little solar panel.  It is almost like the sun always shines there, and almost like you live directly under the sun or something!  LOL.  Looks beautiful.


We, on the other hand, almost have to point our solar panels down over the horizon.  And we need a bit more wattage than you do there.  Remind me again why I live in Canada?

The litle stand shows 2 of the 4 - 100 watt panels that we were pulling out, and replacing with the new array - which is 4 panels, each 240 Watt @ 24Volts.  YES - we trimmed that tree back before we left.  :)

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Sri, I didn't look at how much bandwidth the cams took. We have a 60mbps uplink shooting about 3 miles across the harbor to a Force 200 dish. Yes, both cams are fed to the Force 180 through the Veracity switch. Remember, we are not powering the Force 180 from the switch, just the cams. Powering the Force 180 directly. I can run some numbers on it next time I'm at the head end.

Nine, talk about a low angle, sheesh. None of this sun directly overhead for you, eh? We are in the middle of SC on the coast so we get good sun. I think they're set about 60deg.

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@mplradio wrote:

Nine, talk about a low angle, sheesh. None of this sun directly overhead for you, eh? We are in the middle of SC on the coast so we get good sun. I think they're set about 60deg.


That's also to help keep the snow off them a bit here. They are not ideally tilted enough for the Summer, when the sun it higher in the sky, but they still get enought light in the summer anyways - so that's not as critical. They are tilted low to maximize light in the winter, when our sunrise/sunset times are about 9:15 AM/4:45 PM

And if we tilt them up any higher - this is what happened to the old 4x 100 watt pannels in the winter. :(  So, lower angle works out generally better for all year and not having to move them up and down, and not having to go clean them every few days.